Also continued to learn how to change happy accidents into a design choice My brushes are not doing great at holding a tip point anymore and I am really realizing I need to get a lot closer with my pinch hold to the tip of the brush, as well as, you know, thinning the paints.ģ. I think I finally figured out JUST HOW MUCH I need to thin my paints! (A lot. Working through my Imperial Assault box set, tried my hand at shading cloth for my Red Guard!ĭefinitely learned a lot from working on these.ġ. OptimusWang fucked around with this message at 05:05 on Aug 31, 2017 Again, much more vibrant than the Army Painter inks: This guy's cloak was done with Vallejo Game ink. I took the same approach with this guy using Scale75 inks and even thinned down the skin color is pretty intense: The purple cloak was just 2 coats of ink - no wash or highlights: Really happy with the skin for such a low amount of effort, especially on the back. The skin, hair, and loincloth are all inks again, only I haven't done anything else to them other than tossing a wash on the hair. This guy's skin was just primed, inked all over with blue and drybrushed: I'm doing these guys with Army Painter inks and it gives them a very watercolor feel. If you're already doing zeinthal priming, inks are pretty awesome. How do I use them? Do i just put them on top of the normal paint i put down, or mix them in? Has anyone had experience with Inks? I picked up some Red and Gold Liquitex Acrylic Inks for my Custodes. I'm still new to this, but I thought you were stuck dry brushing over wash with the original color if you fudged it like that. I've painted a whopping 5 figs + some x-wing ships so I'm still pretty new to this, but the ones I'm working on now are a gigantic pain in the rear end, especially compared to their metal figs I did previously.Īlso, who do you guys recommend for fantasy minis?Īny idea what this guy starts using at 6:26 to remove the extra wash? Sorry if this is a really basic question, but do plastic minis just kind of suck to paint vs metal ones? Or is that mostly a Reaper issue? I'll scrape as much off with a stiff brush as I can and try the mix tonight. I tried a single pass with dullcote/flock method and wasn't real impressed: Let it sit for 12+ hours then once dry finish the base (desert yellow dry brush bone dry brush or whatever is to your liking) then line the bottom of the base and seal the model with matte sealer.I made a tutorial on them that you can check out here: Make it clean as can be.ĭip the model into the quickshade and with a firm grip on your pliers fling the model up and down numerous times. Paint on the red eyes and go back and correct any mistakes or sloppy areas. Paint on the silver bits (the cylinder that meets the mask and hose, the belt buckle, shoulder pads, the gun barrel, his tiny buttons, aquilla on his helmet, harness rings, and his mask's eye liners) Then paint the brown leather portions (Mask, boots, inside of coat, gloves, belt, and harness) MAKE SURE there is little to no humidity in the air as often times it makes primers clumpy and "fuzzy looking".īegin by painting all blacks and greys on the model (mask's hose, and trousers grey gun body and helmet black) don't worry about makig mistakes but avoid sloppiness. give it 1-2 coats until everything is covered nicely. About 8-12" should give decent coverage without clumping. Once dry, prime the models with AP Desert Yellow. the mould release agent can sometimes ruin a priming. Wash them off gently under the faucet and let them dry. This tutorial uses a quick and effective speed painting, assembly line technique so do them in groups no smaller than 10 models at a time. Make sure you have a squad assembled at least - never do them one at a time it takes far too long. Gw Desert Yellow, Chaos Black, Chainmail, Red Gore, Adeptus Battle Grey, and Reaper Master Series Shield Brown or Khemri Brown (any rough equivalents work the same these are just what I used desert yellow is a must because army painter matches it exactly.) It is quick and easy but has pretty decent, gritty looking results. This is the tutorial on painting death korps models as steel legion.
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